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Researchers, wearing gas masks and holding clipboards, observe the response of a woman and her child to a toxic gas. Among the life-size three-dimensional exhibits are a blood-smeared table where vivisection experiments were conducted. In echoes of campaigns against Holocaust denial in Europe, China seems to have anticipated that the work conducted at Pingfang would be downplayed, denied outright or overlooked as alliances shifted during the Cold War.Īlong with actual laboratory implements such as microscopes, test tubes, beakers and other devices, the museum's exhibits include the baskets for breeding ground squirrels as carriers of the fleas to spread plague bacilli.
The toll of fatalities from biological warfare agents used in the field against enemy soldiers and civilians may have reached 400,000 or greater. Starting from 1935, a unit deceptively named "Epidemic Prevention and Water Purification Department of the Kwantung Army" set up shop, under the command of Lieutenant-general Shiro Ishii, a trained microbiologist, to engage in research into chemical, biological and other forms of asymmetrical warfare.īetween 3,000 and 10,000 prisoners, mostly Chinese and Russians, are believed to have died during experiments performed on them that included infection by pathogens, exposure to low temperatures and vivisection, to name a few. The Kwantung Army had moved to Pingfang from an earlier research facility nearby called the Zhongma Fortress. The entire Pingfang army complex at one time covered some 250,000 square meters (62 acres), and while much of it today lies in ruins, a good part of what remains, while exposed to the elements, is accessible to visitors.Ī life-size wax figure of Unit 731 commander Shiro Ishii receiving a letter signed in blood from Major Tsuneshige Ikari, head of a 22-member Kwantung Army suicide mission that utilized germ warfare against the Soviet Army at Nomonhan in 1939. "It aims to inspire people to 'remember history, not forget the past, cherish peace and create the future.'" records the complete process of the development, production and use of biological weapons as well as the preparation and implementation of biological warfare and human experimentation by Unit 731. To quote from the English brochure provided to visitors: "It.
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Admission to the museum, which was, at the time of my visit, only about three years old, was free of charge. Instead, I was obliged to walk 300 meters to the next intersection, use the pedestrian crosswalk, then walk back 300 meters on the other side.Īfter photographing the museum's stark exterior with its sign in large Chinese characters, I walked down a ramp to the entrance. Their directions put me directly across the wide boulevard from the museum, but a barrier prevented me from crossing the road.
"You'll see it across the road."Īt the corner I spotted a sign for Budweiser beer over a bar entrance and photographed it for future reference. "Turn left at the next corner and walk straight ahead," one gestured with a grease-stained digit.
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I approached several men squatting on the sidewalk discussing how to repair a motorcycle engine and, with a polite "Qing wen," politely asked directions. Surely a site as famous as the Museum of War Crime Evidence by the Japanese Army Unit 731 would be known to the locals. My destination was not in sight, and I had no map.
The bus had threaded its way from the central part of Harbin, in China’s Heilongjiang Province, to the suburbs, rattling along rural, tree-lined roads for about three quarters of an hour to the district of Pingfang, which means "flat house" in Mandarin Chinese.ĭisembarking, I found myself on a dusty commercial street that could have been in any town in China. It was just past noon on September 20, 2018. Then she stopped me and demanded a 1 yuan surcharge, as I had ridden beyond the sector covered by the basic fare.
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Get off here." The unsmiling female bus driver barked her orders and gestured toward the exit. At the street entrance, a sign reads: "Museum Displaying Evidence of Crimes by the Invading Japanese Army Unit 731"
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